Thursday, January 18, 2007

Across the Serengiti

Last night we got back from our drive across most of Eastern Tanzania. We drove from Mwanza around Lake Victoria into the western gate of the Serengeti. From there we drove across the entire park and into another park just west of the Serengeti called Nororgoto Crater refuge. The crater refuge is home to the rift valley and a 30 mile wide crater sometimes called the "crater of life". In the rainy season the crater is filled with every animal known to eastern Africa except giraffes. The entire drive was on 4wheel drive roads through some of the most remote country I have ever seen. Hundreds and hundreds of miles of lush green grass as far as the eye can see. We crossed mountain ranges, jungles, grasslands, lakes, and rivers, lots and lots of rivers. We could not have gone at a better time. The great migration has just finished leaving millions of Zebra and Wildebeest grazing on the lush grass in the western end of the park. Many times we would crest a hill and be able to see 30-50 miles of black moving herds of wildebeest in every direction. It was a truly awe inspiring feeling to experience what the early American settlers must have felt looking across the plains of Kansas at millions of buffalo. For the last three days I have been in sensory overload. 4wheeling across Africa with one of my best friends camping along the way, has been one of the greatest non family experiences of my life. Jason and I spent hours and hours talking, laughing, and just generally enjoying each others company. I was a little apprehensive about the trip to start with just because I have never done anything this "big" before. It was apparent very quickly that there was nothing to worry about. Having someone who speaks fluent Swahili and knows how to get around in Africa made all the difference in the world. Several times we ran across tourists who where paying through the nose for the same experience with a guide company. Each time Jason and I would laugh and say, "poor saps". I was a little vague before about the details because I did not want anyone to worry but here was the plan.

1. Drive across the Serengeti and Rift valley in a 4x4.
2. Not take any meals with us but instead try to buy meals from locals and cooks at the big safari camps.
3. Camp out in bush every night.
4. Have a blast.

I am happy to report we where able to do all of the above. The drive was unbelievable, the food incredible, the camping outrageous, and I have never laughed harder, dreamed bigger, felt more relaxed, and generally had a more enjoyable travel experience in a very long time. If I where to recap the story I really would not even know where to began. We saw every animal you can think of. Some animals we only saw a few of others we saw several hundred thousand of. The only animals we did not see were rhino, and cheetah. In talking with other drivers who communicated with ham radio, none where spotted anywhere during our visit.

Well I need to go. We have a busy day planned. I have been trying to post some pictures but have been having LOTS of problems with my computer. The piece of junk does not seem to want to work. I spent a few hours messing with it and talking with dell, but found out quickly "customer service" means "customer service to people in America". My GPS also crapped out right as we entered the western gate leaving us without a "proper" navigation system. My camera and video camera worked brilliantly however leaving me with some 300 still photos and an hour and a half of video. Including video of us trying to get Jason's landcruiser unstuck from a mud hole while being surrounded by a pack of Hyena. We where never really at risk but it was a surreal experience. I have gotten 4x4's unstuck lots of times but never while someone stands and watches for lions and other things that might eat you. I would have been more freaked out about it had one not tried to get in our tent the night before. But that is a story for another time...

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